GREENWICH-STAMFORD COMMUNITY

OUR MISSION TO ISRAEL

NOVEMBER 10-20, 2003

54 of us went through the very thorough, but polite, security procedures of El Al Airlines on November 9th before we boarded Flight LY 002 for Ben Gurion International Airport in Israel. We were mostly Jews from the Greenwich and Stamford Jewish Communities, with some who were not Jewish, but who shared our interest in supporting Israel in her time of trial and need. This was not a tour of tourists, but a well planned and informative tour of Israel's essence. By that, I mean a well guided tour of major points of historical, military, cultural, interfaith, religious, archaeological, immigrant absorption, economic, security, and other issues of interest, culminating in 3 days of the General Assembly in Jerusalem, where we heard major speeches and discussed various issues and ideas. Our group included 7 rabbis: 2 Chabad, 3 Orthodox, 1 Conservative, and 1 Reform. And we all got along. Even better, we liked and respected each other.

We arrived at Ben Gurion  at 12:40 pm Israel time. We were met there by our tour guide, Doron Bookstein, whose knowledge of Israel's people, geography, history, and Torah, was exceptional. We began our tour in Tel Aviv, Israel's metropolis of one million people, founded only 90 years ago on desolate sand dunes. It has become the symbol of progress and modernity, the cultural and commercial center of the State. We visited Independence Hall, one of the first homes in Tel Aviv and the private home of Meir Dizengoff, first mayor of Tel Aviv. There, on May 14, 1948, David Ben Gurion proclaimed the establishment of the State of Israel.  A small room, but full of awe. 

We then proceeded on a walking tour of old Tel Aviv, including stops at the monument to the city's founders, the Shalom Tower to view the lovely mosaic wall by the late Nachum Gutman, depicting the city's history, and the Dolphinarium Memorial, where we paid tribute to the teenagers, most of them New Immigrants from the FSU, who were brutally murdered by a Palestinian suicide bomber as they waited to enter this popular discotheque in June of 2001. From there, we drove to Old Jaffa (think Jonah) for a typical seafood meal. 

Day two started at the Tel Aviv Hilton with a sumptuous Israeli-style breakfast - fresh breads and rolls, cheeses, eggs, vegetables, smoked fish, and more (this was the way we started each day). From Tel Aviv, we traveled north to Zichron Ya'akov, one of the first Jewish settlements in the country. Established in 1882, it became known for its fine wine cellars, which produce high-quality vintages to this day. The town is also famous as the center of the Nili spy ring, organized by Jews to aid the British in ousting the Turks at the beginning of the century. Today, its charming, shop-lined streets attract visitors from around the country. We then ascended through the Carmel Mountains to the Carmelite Monastery at Mukhraka, the site where Elijah is believed to have defeated the false prophets of Baal. The Arabic name refers to the sacrifice (burning) that Elijah offered God from an altar here. The views of the Israeli coast and the Mediterranean Sea were breathtaking. 

Next, in one of the highlights for me, we visited, and had a special lunch, in Dalyat Al Carmel, a Druze village, where we learned about this fascinating Arab minority whose religion remains secret to all but a select elite. The Druze in Israel are loyal to Israel, and young Druze men serve as soldiers and officers in the IDF. The Druze are loyal to whichever country they live in and go to war against other members of their religion when required (sounds familiar to Jews and Christians, but is not so easy for the Muslem Arabs who live in Israel). In the current situation (the Matzav, as they call it in Hebrew) they struggle to maintain ties with their relatives in neighboring Arab countries.  

From there, we traveled on to the youth village of Yemin Orde, where we met children, primarily from the FSU and Ethiopia, as well as from needy families in Israel, who were lovingly cared for and educated by a dedicated staff. Some in our group expressed an interest in sponsoring some of these kids. We were treated to a beautiful song by the assistant director, who had lost a child to terrorism only four months ago. We learned that many of Yemin Orde's  graduates come back for visits to their friends and teachers. We then moved on to the reconstructed Atlit detention camp, where clandestine immigrants to Palestine, many of them Holocaust survivors, were incarcerated during the British Mandate before Israel became independent. Are you getting the idea that we covered a lot of ground in day two (and every other day). Hold on, there's more. The day was not yet over.  

We drove on to the Ramat David Air Force Base (somewhere in Israel), where we petted the F-16 jets and had dinner with other UJC mission participants and soldiers. We were treated to a performance from The Idan Raichel Project, Israel's newest, most innovative and exciting musical phenomena. Our group loved the music and the food, and, of course, those beautiful F-16s. After midnight, we proceeded to our hotel, the Galei Kineret Spa Hotel in Tiberias on the Kineret (Sea of Galilee) for a much needed rest.  

The next day, we departed for Safed, pronounced Tzfat in Hebrew. Safed sits at a higher altitude than any other city in Israel and has been known since the 16th century as a major center of Kabbala, Jewish mysticism. Safed's mystical aura adds to its special status as one of Israel's four holy cities, along with Jerusalem, Tiberias and Hebron. The old synagogues, narrow alleyways and artists' studios add to the hilltop city's unmistakable charm. There, we visited a Chabad Center, where we observed students from all over the world in deep study, and heard a fascinating lecture on Kabbalah. We then boarded jeeps and traveled on the Golan Heights, a beautiful  region. We climbed the heights and stood on a captured Syrian bunker (think 1967) and discovered first-hand the strategic importance of the area, with a bird's-eye view of Israel's expansive Hula Valley below. We heard a story of how a woman from the kibbutz below, whose children had to sleep in a bunker underground for years, gasped, as she could see the roses growing in her own garden from the Syrian position. We then visited Katzrin, known today as the capital of the Golan, one of 50 towns and villages built on the Golan Heights during the times of the Mishna and Talmud. The ruins of an impressive 3rd-century synagogue attest to the past importance of the town, whose future has been uncertain ever since the initiation of peace negotiations with Syria. We also viewed a multi media presentation on the Settlement of the Golan and met with local residents. Before we returned to our hotel, we visited the Tomb of the Rambam (Moses Maimonides, the great Jewish scholar and philosopher, who lived in Cordoba, Spain, and became physician to the Caliph of Egypt when the Jews had to flee Spain in the 12^th century. The Rambam was also the author of the Mishna, as well as other classic works.  

On day four, we departed the hotel for Haifa, where we were privileged to visit the Haifa Naval Base and tour the smallest aircraft carrier in the world  a frigate with a landing space for one helicopter. No jets, but plenty of electronic gear and missiles on board. Then on to the pluralistic yeshiva in Ma'ale Gilboa for an interactive Torah study session. Unlike most Yeshivas, these students do army duty. This was followed by a moving ceremony at the gravesite in Afula of Ilan Mirkov, the popular young Israeli emissary with the Partnership 2000 project, who died in an accident in Stamford two years ago. We were joined by Ilan's father and brother, who announced the birth of a new baby in their family. 

We then visited a school in Afula, where they run a Arab and Israeli Coexistence young peoples project, also as part of our Partnership 2000 program. Following that, we were then taken to The Fence, which is really a series of wire fences (not electrified) and other obstacles and alarms, which protect the people of the Afula-Gilboa region from terrorists across the Green Line. The Arab town of Jenin, from which, so many terrorists have come, is within easy sight of this populated area of Israel. The Head of the Gilboa Regional Council explained the security situation to us. and told us that the Fence becomes a wall only in spots where shots across the border are impossible to stop with only a fence. We continued day four with a visit to a plant that manufactures infrared goggles at Kibbutz Ein Harod. What was interesting to me was that this world class business was run entirely by members of the kibbutz, who shared equally in its' profits. I didn't check the payroll, but I suppose the Janitor received the same pay as the CEO. We next paid a visit to the Merchavia Absorption Center for Ethiopian Immigrants, who greeted us warmly.  

Finally, at 8:00 pm, we were taken to a new university in Herzlia, called the Interdisciplinary Center, where we heard a lecture from Colonel Jonathan Davis, who emphasized that the number of deaths and injuries from terrorism is less than the number of deaths and injuries from traffic accidents in Israel. He faulted the media for distorting the reality of the situation to the extent that it has adversely affected tourism and visits to Israel. We then departed for Jerusalem, the political and spiritual center of the State of Israel, where King David proclaimed Israel's eternal capital 3,000 years ago. We recited the Shehecheyanu, the blessing expressing our gratitude upon reaching Jerusalem.         

On day five, at our King Solomon Hotel headquarters in Jerusalem, we had a breakfast meeting with Rabbi Seth Mandell of the Koby Mandell Foundation, set up in memory of his son Koby who was murdered not far from his home by Palestinian terrorists. Rabbi Mandell and his wife have set up a camp for other children, who have been traumatized by terrorism. We then departed for the Hartman Institute, where we heard a very interesting lecture by Nathan Laufer, on "Moses as a Model for effective Leadership." After that, we drove to the Zion Gate and walked through the Old City wall to visit and pray at the Western Wall and to visit the recently excavated Western Wall Tunnel, which was the extension of the retaining wall built 2,000 years ago by Herod the Great to support the massive compound where the Temple stood. We also visited the new Davidson Visitors' Center in the Southern Wall Archaeological Gardens, where we viewed a virtual presentation that  explains the archaeology of Jerusalem covering the First Temple, Second Temple, Byzantine, Islamic and Crusader periods. We toured the beautifully rebuilt Jewish Quarter of the Old City and had lunch at Cafi Ha Rova, overlooking the Western Wall and the Temple Mount.  

As the sun was waning on a  late Friday afternoon, we returned to our hotel and lit candles. "Shabbat Shalom u'mevorach". Many of us attended Shabbat services at the Wall or other synagogues. This was followed by a Festive Shabbat dinner with Aviva Kayam, our Scholar in Residence and other guests. Aviva gave us a Talmud lesson, followed by a group sing, led most loudly by our Rabbis and their tables. The Derens, and their table, sang joyously in celebration of Reb Yisroel's and Vivi's second son's engagement, that very day.  

Day six  Shabbat: We had options: We could worship at one of a myriad of Jerusalem synagogues and do a walking tour of Jerusalem; we could climb Masada and swim in the Dead Sea; we could visit the unique collections and expansive grounds of the Israel Museum, the country's national museum; we could visit the Tower of David Museum, where the history of this beautiful city is retold with Interactive exhibits; or we could go on walking tours to various neighborhoods of Jerusalem. I chose Masada and the Dead Sea, which were magnificent. On our return, after dark, we walked through Yemin Moshe, the first Jewish community built outside the Old City walls, named after the English Zionist, Moses Montefiore. We passed the famous landmark,  Montefiore's Windmill, where we held our Havdala service.  

Many of us chose to attend a very unusual but inspiring show called Light is heard in Zig Zag, by the Theatrical Group Nalaga'at (Do-touch) the show is performed by 12 deaf and blind actors, who transcend their own limitations to share their dreams and realities with the audience.  

Day seven began with a briefing by Daniel Doron, head of a Think Tank in Israel. Mr. Doron is an advisor to Minister of Finance, Benjamin Netanyahu, and is a proponent of free market policies for the Israeli economy. We then departed Jerusalem and boarded Jeeps for a ride on the Burma Pass, a narrow dirt road that was discovered during the War of Independence when Israel could not resupply besieged Jerusalem because of the advantageous position of the Arab Legion on the heights at Latrun. The Burma Pass was used by the Israeli troops to avoid Latrun. Men and mules were used to backpack much needed supplies until a proper road was built to allow trucks to reach the defenders of Jerusalem. Thus, Jerusalem was saved. 

We next visited Givat HaKibbutzim in Rehovot, where we descended into the reconstructed underground munitions factory located under the kibbutz laundramat and bakery. This kibbutz was established in order to produce bullets for the Sten Guns (produced elsewhere). Production started in 1945 in preparation for the coming War of Independence in 1948. It was necessary to hide the factory in British-controlled Palestine. The unavoidable noise of the munitions machines were muffled by the sounds of the washing machines and ovens above the factory, during the day. Since these underground workers didn't get a lot of sun during the day, tanning machines were brought in to provide them with those great tans you get when supposedly working in the fields. Thus, Israel was saved (by this and a lot of other smart, brave, and miraculous happenings). 

We then got a VIP tour of the Weizmann Institute of Science, one of Israel's world-renowned research institutions, named after Chaim Weizmann, the first president of Israel and a world-class chemist. The Institute houses a massive atomic particle accelerator and a cutting-edge science park offering innovative hands-on activities. The grounds include beautiful gardens as well as Weizmann's House.  

The Mission came to show our solidarity with our Israeli friends and relatives; to better understand the background on which this newest outbreak of violence is taking place and to learn how, upon returning home, we can be effective advocates for Israel.  We then took some time  to reflect, process and share all we have heard and seen, as we prepared to attend the GA.   

After dinner, we assembled at the International Convention Center in Jerusalem for the opening events of the General Assembly (GA) of the United Jewish Communities (UJC). We were 4,000 North Americans and 2,000 Israelis. The GA kicked off with a celebration of this special occasion. We heard from Prime Minister Ariel Sharon, who asserted, with passion, that the Jewish People will never be broken. Afterwards, the vibrancy of Israeli culture was celebrated with music, dance and entertainment.

On day eight, we attended sessions, forums, and workshops. We each chose the events we were most interested in. There were many events to choose from. Some of us even chose to relieve our sleep deprivation and miss the early sessions. To describe a few sessions I attended, there was one on Jewish migration, in which experts from the UK, Russia, and the Jewish Agency discussed which Jews are going where. We were told that South African Jews were going to Australia, French Jews were worried, but mostly sitting tight, and Russian Jews are doing pretty well in the new Russian economy and are not leaving so fast. In another event called Promoting Communications and Cross-Cultural Interaction, we heard Moshe Ahrens (former Defence Minister), an Israeli Arab journalist, and an American philanthropist, who finances a project to improve the lot of Arabs in Israel, discuss the Arab-Jewish relationship in Israel. It was agreed that, as citizens, the Arabs have full rights, including the vote and their own representatives in the Knesset. But economically, they are disadvantaged because many jobs in Israel, having any security requirements, are barred to anyone that has not served in the IDF, which, of course, precludes Arabs. This is a problem that will be difficult to solve until there is real peace (I'm an optimist).

Following the last session on day eight, North American GA participants (all 4,000 of us) marched from the Convention Center one and a half miles to the center of Jerusalem, as a demonstration of our solidarity with the people of Israel. Delegates marched with their communities and were joined by North American young people participating in long-term programs in Israel. This was followed by an open-air cultural festival, entertainment and a speech by the Mayor of Jerusalem. Afterwards, thousands of us flooded the shops and restaurants, which had seen virtually no tourists in the past three years. Everywhere we went in Israel, Israelis approached us and thanked us for coming

On day nine, we were given an opportunity to explore places and ideas, that had been discussed, by visits to sites throughout the middle of Israel, to hear and interact with the people and places that define our work in Israel and the collective future of the Jewish People. My bus visited sites in and around Jerusalem, including Gilo, a new town, a little south of Jerusalem (over the green line), all newly constructed after 1967, with 60,000 Jewish inhabitants. We saw magnificent views of Jerusalem from Gilo and the wall that was put up to deflect the gun shots coming from nearby Beit Jala. Then we drove through the Martyrs Forest, miles and miles of forested hills, all planted by the JNF (think blue and white boxes). We stopped at a huge sculpture, perhaps 20 feet high, with carvings related to the history (current and ancient) of Israel. Then, we stopped for Lunch at Latrun (that same former British Police Station at Latrun that gave Israel such problems in 1948) and viewed, from a distance, the outdoor Tank Museum at Latrun. 

Now the fun began. We drove to Neve Tzedek in the heart of historic Tel Aviv for a party to end all parties. Buses with hundreds of us kept arriving at the Suzanne Dallal Center, a spectacular modern cultural complex created on the site of Tel Aviv's first school. It had a theater, in which the Bat Sheva Dance Company performed for us, and four huge courtyards with screens and stages, in which the food and drink never stopped coming. Neve Tzedek is coming back to life, you pioneers. Needless to say, we had to break up the party and return to our hotels in Jerusalem.

On day ten, we attended the closing events at the GA, where we were entertained again and heard speeches, including speeches by Shimon Peres and Benjamin Netanyahu. Peres spoke of Israel's world lead in the new science of Nanotechnology (re: miniaturization, molecules, etc). Netanyahu proposed a way to get to peace by first obtaining security (with the new Fence), then bringing prosperity to the area by providing a land bridge for ships from Asia, carrying goods to Europe, by ships, which are too large to pass through the Suez Canal. He proposed to use the deep sea Port of Aqaba and share the profits with the Jordanians and Palestinians. He also proposed (and it is happening) high speed rail transportation and roads to make for easier commuting from the Galilee and Negev to where the jobs are, in the center of the country, in order to spread the population. With all this, he contends, with Palestinians better off economically, there will be more likelihood of peace, a real peace.

Conclusion

For ten days we walked, talked and explored the past and the unfolding future of Israel and the Jewish people. Our more than 4000 North American delegates, now have a better understanding of life in Israel, the character of its' people, and their challenges, that could not have been achieved except through a personal encounter with the land and people of Israel. And so, we concluded this General Assembly with a call to action. The GA of 2003 marked the re-launching of North American Jewish tourism, with the Federations serving as the gateway through which North American Jews will reengage with Israel, following a three-year hiatus. We returned to the United States and to Canada with a firm resolve to help the next wave of North American Jews to be With Israel - In Israel, Shaping Our Common Future. 

Gene Schwartz and Joan Mann